Ultimaker 3 feeder problems free download.Hi, how can we help?
Ultimaker 3 feeder problems free download.Ultimaker Cura
New Cura Connect features.Ulti 3 extended feeder issues – Ultimaker 3D printers – Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Feb 26, · Clean the feeders on the Ultimaker 3 Last updated on February 26, The feeders forward filament to the print head. To make sure that exactly the right amount of material is extruded, it is important that the feeder gears can turn smoothly. After many hours of printing, or when material has been ground down, there is a chance that Estimated Reading Time: 2 mins. A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide. On this page you’ll be able to visually try to match the problems you are having with your print and hopefully find enough information so that you can eliminate the issues you’re having. Look through the images and click on the one that matches the problems you’re having to jump to a more in depth. Ultimaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time.
Ultimaker 3 feeder problems free download.A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide – 3DVerkstan Knowledge Base
The Ultimaker 2+ and Ultimaker 3 feeders are held in place by 1 screw at the top of the white feeder housing, and 1 at the bottom. These screws screw into a threaded nut embedded in the back panel. Use your 2mm hex head screwdriver or allen key to unscrew these 2 screws, and lift the feeder away. Jul 16, · Clean the feeders on the Ultimaker S5 Last updated on July 16, The feeders forward filament to the print head. To make sure that exactly the right amount of material is extruded, it is important that the feeder gears can turn smoothly. After many hours of printing, or when the material has been ground down, there is a chance that. A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide. On this page you’ll be able to visually try to match the problems you are having with your print and hopefully find enough information so that you can eliminate the issues you’re having. Look through the images and click on the one that matches the problems you’re having to jump to a more in depth.
On this page you’ll be able to visually try to match the problems you are having with your print and hopefully find enough information so that you can eliminate the issues you’re having.
Look through the images and click on the one that matches the problems you’re having to jump to a more in depth explanation. The information on this page is skewed towards the Ultimaker2 but most of the information applies to the Ultimaker Original as well.
We also have a page with a few tips on Getting Better Prints by tweaking settings or modifying your model for printability. If you find any inaccuracies or if something is unclear, please let us know.
Warping happens when the plastic cools and contracts. As the print cools down and shrinks slightly it starts to pull in on itself. Eventually the forces become so great that the print bends up from the platform. The best way to prevent this is with a heated build platform.
By using a heated platform the plastic is kept just below the point where it goes solid, the so called glass transition temperature, and it therefore stays flat and connected to the platform. Although the heat from the platform is often enough it is also recommended to add a thin layer of glue to the platform to promote adhesion. Your printer will have come with a small stick of glue, spread a thin layer of glue onto the platform. Then, with a moistened rag or piece of paper, spread the glue out evenly onto the platform.
As the bed heats the water will evaporate and leave a very nice thin and even layer of glue. It is also important to make sure your bed is levelled as perfectly as you can.
The plastic must be squished onto the platform so that it bonds properly. Besides preventing the print from coming loose or warping it also makes the bottom layer nice and shiny. You want the lines to be touching each other and all look identical to each other.
Here’s an example of what you’re looking for:. Notice how all the lines are uniform and touching. If the lines show signs of gaps your bed is levelled too low. If the lines are squished and messy it is likely your bed is too close. A built in feature in cura called “brim” is another great way to help keep your print from warping.
This feature puts what looks like the brim of a hat on the bottom layer of your print to help fight against the pulling forces of the cooling print. Since this brim is only a single layer thick it is very easy to remove once the print is complete. The Ultimaker2 Go doesn’t come with a heated bed so here you’ll mostly have to rely on using the supplied blue painters tape and brim.
Make sure you really press it onto the platform so that it doesn’t easily lift off. You can also clean the surface of the tape with some alcohol to get rid of the waxy surface and any finger oils. This will make the print stick much harder. But since the bed on the Go is much smaller, warping is less of a problem.
Besides needing a higher bed temperature remember to change the material setting on your machine to ABS you also need to be more careful with cooling.
If at all possible try to print without using the cooling fans at all. Ideally the printer should be enclosed to keep a constant temperature in the printing area.
To promote bed adhesion you can make a slurry of ABS by dissolving a few bits of scrap ABS in a jar with Acetone Spread this slurry like a glue onto your build platform. A leaning print is usually caused by friction causing the print head to move a shorter distance than expected. Make sure that the short belts that connect the stepper motors to the axes do not rub up against the main body of the printer.
Similarly make sure that the pulleys on the stepper motors that the belts ride over are not touching the side of the printer.
If they are you must move the pulley closer to the stepper motor. It is difficult to reach the set screws that secure the pulley to the motor and you will therefore have to remove the white cover plates that the motors sit behind. These panels are held in place with a single screw on the side of the machine if you have a slightly older printer. On the newer ones there are two screws, one on the back and one on the side. Remove the screw and then lift the covers off by tilting the cover slightly towards the front and them lifting them out.
The only thing holding them in place is a small metal tab at the bottom of the cover that sticks down into the bottom of the printer. On the Go there are no screws to remove. Instead the covers are held in place with small tabs that stick into the walls of the printer and into the bottom. These covers require a little bit of brute force to remove.
Try pushing in the areas marked in the picture below and then pull the cover to the left. You’ll likely have to wiggle the cover around a bit to get it loose.
As you might imagine getting the covers back on can be a bit of a challenge but with some patience and finesse they’ll snap back into place. Now you will be able to reach the set screws of the pulleys.
If you can’t reach the screws easily simply move the head around so that they rotate into view. Undo the screw a turn or so and then push the pulley closer to the stepper motor.
The pulley should be as close as possible without touching the stepper motor. Don’t forget to re-tighten the screws when you are done and make sure they are very tight so that the pulleys cannot slip. To confirm that this is the case you can use a black marker and put marks on the pulleys and a matching mark on the axes.
After printing a test print and seeing a layer shift you can then inspect your marks and see which pulley s have moved. It is likely that the pulley s that need tightening are those connected to the short belts. Tighten the set screws that hold the pulleys in place very tightly, probably a bit tighter than you expect. The small allen key that came with your printer will flex as you tighten the screws.
Don’t forget to check the pullies that are attached directly to the motor shaft, you can read about those in the section above.
Try to move the head around manually with the power turned off. The head should move around quite easily and there should be similar resistance in both the X and Y direction.
If the head is moving stiffly it is probably a good idea to give the rods a drop of light machine oil each such as sewing machine oil. Another cause for stiff movement can be misalignment of the rods so that they are not perfectly square. If you notice that the axes aren’t square you can fix this by loosening the set screws on the two pulleys of one rod so that the sliding block on that side can move without affecting the opposing block.
Nudge the block the needed amount and then re-tighten the set screws. It could also be that the part you are printing detached from the platform during the print. This should be fairly easy to see as the part will have shifted position from where it was originally. Make sure that your glass plate is held firmly in place. If the clips aren’t gripping the plate firmly enough it might shift slightly during the print.
If they are too loose you can use a pair of pliers to gently squeeze the clips together. In rare cases there could be an issue with end stops triggering unexpectedly due to cross talk between wires. Re-routing the cables can help with this. But again, this is a very rare occurrence. Yet another, even more rare, cause can be overheating stepper drivers.
A design change of the traces on the mainboard can lead to more current than expected to get to the stepper drivers. This causes the stepper motor to overheat which in turn kicks in the overheating protection in the driver. As the stepper overheats it shuts off for a fraction of a section to cool down and this is when the shift occurs.
Pillowing show up as bumps in the top surface of a print and can either be open or closed. The most important thing here is to make sure that your cooling fans are going top speed when the printer is laying down the top layer. Without proper cooling the thin strands of plastic tend to curl up and stick up above the surface of the print and make it harder for subsequent layers to properly span over the gap.
With good cooling the strands gradually grow over the gaps until it closes fully. Besides cooling you also need to print a thick enough top surface so that the printer can properly close it.
In general you should make sure that you are printing at least six top layers. Since the top and bottom thickness is set in mm you will have to do some basic math to make sure you’re printing enough layers.
If you are printing with a 0. In general you will need more top layers the thinner your layer height is. With very thin layers the thin strands of plastic are more likely to break before fully bridging over the gaps in the infill and providing a nice base for the following layer. You will therefore need to print more layers to make up for this. In other words very thin layers can be another cause of pillowing.
This image shows two prints done with exactly the same settings, except for one, the bottom print did not have the cooling fans enabled. The difference between infill percentages at 24 or lower and 25 and higher is how cura lays down each layer.
The infill is a crosshatch pattern made with diagonal intersecting lines. At lower densities both directions are laid down for each layer while at higher densities it is only laid down in one direction per layer. So, for layer X it will do lines from the lower left to the upper right. It’s very common that the first couple of layers of a print is wider than you expected them to be.
This is because you will generally want to make sure the first layer is nicely squished into the build platform so that it sticks properly. By doing this the plastic gets squished out into a thicker line than normal and thus the bottom of the print will bulge out a bit like an elephant’s foot. You can decrease this effect by levelling your bed so that the nozzle is slightly further away from the bed and lowering the bed temperature a bit.